Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Monsoon trek to Brahmagiri


Before I start to write anything, there's one suggestion for all. Never take the Kanakapura road to Mysore and the Nagarhole road from Mysore to Mananthavady.

We never understood why we always end up doing treks during the monsoon season only. Maybe, we like taking more challenges. After our successful climb of Mullayangiri under extremely harsh weather conditions during the weekend of July 14th – 16th, we were all upbeat to carry out another trek. And whats better than exploring Malluland (Kerala) or Gods Own Country where one can be as close to nature as possible. We had visited Wayanad, our usual summer resort a couple of times already, so whenever we think of Malluland, Wayanad is the first place which hits the mind. The last two times we went to Wayanad, we had plans of trekking at Brahmagiri, but it had never materialized. This time around we got the right opportunity to do this trek and being monsoon time, we realized that the trek would be quite challenging too. That was it. We froze Brahmagiri as our destination and started our preparations for the trek. Since we had only the weekend to do the trek, our plan was to do a day trekking. We were the regular three guys for the trek – Kunal, myself and Venky and as usual, we always prefer to travel on bikes, Kunal on his bullet and me on my moped (as Kunal calls it) Yamaha RX135.

Trekking in Brahmagiri hills can be done from either the Karnataka side near Coorg or the Kerala side from Thirunelli. We decided to do the trek from Thirunelli, a very famous temple town right at the foothills of the Brahmagiri hills and it is around 315 kms from Bangalore. Our plan was to start from Bangalore on Friday evening, reach Mysore around evening, stay for the night there and go towards Thirunelli early in the morning on Saturday. The road from Mysore to Thirunelli goes through Gundulpet, Sultanbathery and Mananthavady. We started from Bangalore at 4:00PM and after many deliberations decided to take the Kanakpura road as we expected to face less traffic there. We had traveled on this road the last time we went to Mysore and the road was not in pretty good shape, but we assumed that probably the road condition would have improved and also that we need not stop for traffic snarls on the Mysore state highway no. 17. But we were proved wrong. The road has worsened and it was like a roller coaster ride to Mysore on our bikes. We could reach Mysore only at around 9:00PM. We checked in at Hotel Roopa for the night, had a good dinner at Parklane restaurant and landed in bed around 12:30 AM. We hoped to wake up next day around 6:00AM and proceed for Thirunelli. But that never happened. The tiring travel the night before has taken the toll on our body and we could wake up only around 9:00AM. We started from Mysore at 10:00 AM for Gundulpet. At Gundulpet, you have to take the right towards Kozhikode for reaching Thirunelli. The straight road from Gundulpet goes to Ooty. Both these roads goes through the Bandipur forest and while traveling if you are lucky you can sight several animals mainly elephants. We reached Gundulpet well in time, filled our fuel tanks and started towards Sultanbathery. From the Gundulpet junction, its around 10 kms to the first entry point for Bandipur forest. In our earlier rides through Bandipur, the road was pretty bad, but this time around we found that the roads have been relayed and it was very comfortable driving through the forest. Do look out for speed breakers if you are driving very fast inside the forest. The breakers are not marked and it springs up every now and then. It is best to drive at a very comfortable speed through the forest appreciating the natural beauty of the surroundings. The road from Gundulpet to Sultanbathery crosses through two wildlife sanctuaries – Bandipur and Muthanga. After around 40 kms, we crossed the Karnataka border and moved into the Kerala side into Muthanga wildlife sanctuary. We were doing our rides in good time and in another 20 kms, we reached Sultanbathery. You have to cross the Sultanbathery town for the diversion towards Thirunelli. In another 10 minutes, we saw the diversion on our right towards Thirunelli. The straight road goes to Kalpetta, the headquarters of Wayanad district and the distance will be around 20 kms from this point. We took the diversion for Thirunelli. For trekking at Brahmagiri, it is necessary to take permission from the Divisional Forest Officer at Mananthavady which falls on the way to Thirunelli. We took an hour or so to reach Mananthavady and without any trouble located the Forest Office. The time was around 2:00 PM and it had started raining. The divisional forest office complex housed different range forest offices. After a bit of enquiring, we were asked to meet to the range forest officer of the Begur forest range. We had to wait for some time before we could meet the range forest officer. While waiting for the officer, we had a chat with the office staff and they mentioned that monsoon was the worst possible time to do a trek at Brahmagiri because of slippery terrain and the most important of all, leeches. Within a short while, we could meet the forest officer and he too repeated the dangers of trekking in Brahmagiri during this time. But on our persistent request he allowed us to go for the trek. He suggested that we go for the trek the next day morning, i.e. Sunday and called up the forest check post at Thirunelli to arrange for our accommodation at the Inspection Bungalow there and also a guide for the trek. We were pretty much happy with the developments and we left the forest office for Thirunelli at around 3:45PM. It took us around an hour to reach the Thirunelli forest check post where we were supposed to meet one Mr. Rajan. He was there waiting for us and he took us to the inspection bungalow which was situated at the top of the hill. The natural surroundings in and around the IB was amazing. One can see the Brahmagiri range from here very clearly. We were shown the dormitory accommodation which was a decent place for a one night stay. We kept our bags there and set out to visit the Thirunelli temple which is almost a kilometer away from the rest house. After reaching the temple, we realized that the temple will be open at 5:30 PM, so we immediately entered the nearest restaurant to grab some food. We were very hungry since we did not have a proper lunch. By the time we finished eating, it was time to go into the temple. As mentioned in several places, the temple is located right at the foothills of the Brahmagiri and the beauty of the surroundings has to be seen to believe. We paid our obeisance to the lord and went around the temple surroundings. Just near the temple gates, there’s a 2-storeyed hotel run by the temple board. It seemed decent from outside so there’s another option of staying at Thirunelli other than the forest IB. We came back to our rest house, had a good chat for sometime, freshened ourselves and went back for dinner to a different restaurant near the temple. Post dinner, a good night’s sleep was what we desired before we start our trek the next day morning.

We were awake by 7:30AM the next day and were ready for the trek by 8:30AM. The guide, Mr. Achappan had also come by that time. To counter the leech attack he suggested we apply soap on our legs and other exposed body parts. We did as required and with all other precautions against leeches, we set out for the trek. The trek route starts just near the Inspection Bungalow. Mr. Achappan seemed to be a seasoned campaigner in Brahmagiri hills as he was least bothered about the leeches. His legs were exposed and he wore a plastic shoe whereas we had tucked our trouser bottoms inside our socks so that the leeches do not get any chance of getting to the skin directly. Within just half a kilometer of walking, we realized why all the people were desisting us from doing the trek. We found out that our shoes were full of leeches and they were trying to get inside the shoes and were moving all around. We got really scared on seeing this and at one point, myself and Venky decided to abort the trek. But our enthusiasm kept us from returning back and with occasional stops to remove the leeches, we kept surging ahead. Achappan cut the bark of some tree in the forest and gave us to apply the juice of that on our shoes to repel the leeches and it really worked. So everytime we saw leeches on our shoes and trousers, we just removed it using the bark. The trek route was a jeepable track but Achappan was taking us through different routes crisscrossing thick vegetation. The forest started becoming thicker and thicker. Because of the monsoons, the vegetation all around was totally green. There were several small and big streams on the way which generated some level of excitement in testing our jumping skills. As we moved along, we noticed elephant dung at several places and Achappan mentioned that the forests of Brahmagiri had a huge elephant population. Also, he kept on pointing at several pug marks on the trek route which he says are tiger paw marks. But we were not very much convinced with his conclusions. We kept on going up and up and up and after about an hour of trekking, we came to a plateau with the entire surroundings wide open. We were awestruck by the pristine beauty of the valley and the range of hills surrounding it. We forgot about the leeches, we forgot about everything else. We are far far away from the crowd. Here we are, just amidst nature, nature and nature all around. After walking for some more time, we could see a watch tower ahead of us and the Brahmagiri peak just behind it. The rain gods have also opened up suddenly. Walking at a brisk pace, we came to the bottom of the watch tower and within a short while we were climbing up the stairs to the top of the watchtower. The view of the valley from the top of the tower was marvelous. Here we came to realize that in spite of removing the leeches every now and then, they somehow made their way inside our shoes. We were reluctant to open our shoes since if we stop to do that job, there will be more leeches attacking us. We decided to clean everything after climbing down to the rest house. It was around 11:30AM and we had to get back to Bangalore by night. So, we decided to culminate our trek at this point near the Brahmagiri peak. Achappan told us that the road going ahead of us goes over to the Karnataka side. Iruppu falls was just around 3 kms from the watchtower whereas Pakshipataalam was around 5 kms. Pakshipataalam supposedly had few rock caves which are home to several exotic and unknown birds. But yes, we can never forget this amazing place amidst nature and we have to have some reason for coming over here again and again. A view of the valley So, Pakshipataalam and Iruppu falls will be our next destination for the trek. We were told that December to April is the best time to carry out trekking in the Brahmagiri hills when you are free from the torment of leeches. Apart from that, with special permission from the forest office, one can camp in the forest overnight which we feel would be a tremendous experience.

We started our downhill climb from the watchtower and in approximately 45 minutes were back at the rest house. Now we have the most troublesome problem of all. We have to remove our shoes and figure out the damages done to our feet by the blood suckers. Very carefully we took off our shoes to find several leeches stuck to the socks with few of them even managing to get inside. Kunal and myself had blood oozing out at several places. Only Venky did not shed even a single drop of blood, thanks to his thick socks. All of us had to throw away our socks. After a quick shower and limited first aid to stop the blood flow, we started our return drive to Bangalore. While going towards Thirunelli the day before, we had seen a road going towards Mysore and the distance read only 95 kms. We thought of taking that road instead of going via Sultanbathery and Gundulpet. This road we were told goes through the Nagarhole forest. Hardly had we gone around 7 kms on this road, when we hit a very bad patch of road with full mud and tons of pits. We enquired from the locals around about the condition of the road ahead and came to know that the bad patch of roads will be there for another 30kms of so. We already had enough driving experience on bad roads during this trip, so we avoided traveling on this road and got back the same way we came. We reached Mananthavady in very good time, had a quick lunch of kerala paratha and egg curry and proceeded towards Sultanbathery. We cruised at 60-65kms/hour non-stop for two hours before hitting Gundulpet. The time was around 6:20PM. We stopped for sometime on the outskirts of Gundulpet and started towards Bangalore. We planned to take the next break at a Coffee Day outlet around half way on the Bangalore – Mysore highway. Just before entering Mysore, we took a diversion on the left to take the bypass towards Bangalore. The bypass roads were in extremely good condition and within a short while we were driving on the Bangalore – Mysore highway. We drove at a constant speed of 60kms/hour. Other than the occasional bad patch of roads whenever we are crossing a small town on the highway and few intermittent arrivals of bullock carts and cyclists from nowhere, the roads are in very good condition. We reached our Coffee Day outlet around 8:30PM, relaxed for sometime with hot cappuchino and hit the road for Bangalore. We were in Bangalore by 9:45PM, back amongst the bondage of Moh and Maya. Brahmagiri will for sure linger in our minds till we make our next trip there. We are certain to be in the midst of the serene and peaceful surroundings of Brahmagiri for a longer duration sometimes during January to April.

ABOUT BRAHMAGIRI

Brahmagiri Hills can be accessed from Coorg on the Karnataka side or Thirunelli on the Kerala side. With a height of approximately 1600 meters, Brahmagiri is well known for the famous Iruppu Falls and the Thirunelli temple and also for the enormous opportunity to do trekking. On the Kerala side, Brahmagiri falls in Wayanad district with headquarters in Kalpetta. The entire Wayanad district is abound with natural beauty and has several places of historical importance making it the ideal place for nature lovers and regular tourists alike.

HOW TO REACH WAYANAD, THIRUNELLI

Wayanad is around 280 kms from Bangalore and one has to drive through Mysore, Gundulpet and Sultanbathery to reach Kalpetta. Kalpetta is on the Mysore-Kozhikode highway. Just after crossing Gundulpet, one has to take the diversion on the right to hit the highway to Kozhikode. The straight road goes to Ooty. The road to Kozhikode goes through the Bandipur, Muthanga and Wayanad wildlife sanctuaries. To go to Thirunelli, the starting point of the trek Brahmagiri trek, take the right turn just after crossing Sultanbathery town. There’s a small indication about this diversion on the road and there’s ample chances of missing it, so just be on the lookout. From this point, the road to Thirunelli goes via Mananthavady. At Mananthavady, permission for trekking has to be taken from the Forest Office. It is on the way to Thirunelli only just adjacent to the Kerala Road Transport Corporation Bus Stop. At the Forest Office, meet the Range Forest Office of Begur Range for the necessary permission. Give atleast 24 hours time for forest office permission and other necessary arrangements before starting the trek.

Bangalore to Mysore: 143 kms on Mysore Road
Mysore to Gundulpet: 60 kms (don’t enter Mysore city, take the bypass road to go towards Kozhikode)
Gundulpet to Sultanbathery: 55 kms (take the Kozhikode highway)
Sultanbathery to Kalpetta: 28 kms
Sultanbathery to Mananthavady: 32 kms
Mananthavady to Thirunelli: 30 kms

PLACES OF STAY AT THIRUNELLI

- Forest Inspection Bungalow dormitory accommodation. (Rs. 80.00 per night per person)
- Temple Guest House just near the temple (Rs. 150.00 for 2 persons per night)
- Some cottages were also coming up in that region, probably it will be up in a short time.

TREK DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Moderate (if you walk on the jeep track)
Slightly difficult (if the guide takes you through thick jungles bypassing the jeep track)

1 comment:

  1. Wonderful jacks add photos, This site would appear amazing...wish the traveler rolls the stone more and more :)

    ReplyDelete